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From Crazy Quilter: How to sew the blocks?

I've been doing a "memory" quilt for my 18 years of age during the past year. It consists of pieces of clothing, ornaments, blankets, etc of your life – well, that part of memory. It began as a patchwork quilt and now is 24 12 "blocks occupied Fun, chaos – each with its own personality. There a color theme – mostly bright aqua, bright green, orange, purple and pink. But there are also places that are in the red and blacks and earthy tones. I decided instead of running the squares together increase the look of the chaos, I wanted to separate square with a unifying color strips between. How I can measure this for a frame size with two beds? What type of material between the blocks would be better? How to measure and sew the strips between my boxes? How I can stabalize below the variable thicknessess material (I did sew the muslin cloth backing.)? Ideas?

Since you already have 24-inch twelve blocks, I think you want to add "Bars" … also called sashing. It used to depend on the look you want and fabrics that you have used. 100% cotton is always a good bet because it does not stretch like many natural materials and is thin enough to join other pieces without creating too thick. You could use other materials but if you want, and tend not to Ravel or are of little resistance. As the size of a double quilt, you would like ot decide if yours is used all the way to the floor, or only partially to the ground (Perhaps with a ruffle or skirt "other" goes the rest of the way to the floor – or not.) Measure the length and width of your mattress double (or find one online), then add the amount you want to hang up on 3 sides and the amount of coverage you want at the head of the bed). How to measure and sew the lattice, that's a math problem I find it easier to do on graph paper. Use of the squares of graph paper as finished * sizes will be easier, but you will have remember where you need to add seam allowances to end up that size. Decide how wide you want the lattices to be (by audition including blocks). I find it easier when setting up a quilt on graph paper to get the paper with the smallest possible squares, so do not forget that a square below represent the 2 "or 4", etc. Then, on your graph paper, draw in the first block (say 12 ", if you are 12 1 / 2" when no end – ie. with the tabs) … skip next to your network places depending on how many inches you want to be … and add the following block … then repeat until you have all the blocks and blinds drawn in …. Finally add any border (s) you may want to increase the overall size of the quilt .. You can then see how long and wide network of each strip should be for the size you want, but will have to add allowance amounts to the seam before cut out. Generally, short strips are added to opposite sides of the inner blocks (for example on the left and right of each – veritically), then long strips are used the other direction (vertical). Any final block need not be short but the strip from one or two sides will have a long string attached. That sounds confusing if you do not already know how, but many sites on google lattices (or sashing) will have pictures and instructions … Here's an example: Add http://www.craftandfabriclinks.com/quiltinstr/quiltinstr2.html batting behind his blocks sewn together, (and borders that any might want to add to its "superior") dare or the thickness of the various blocks reasonably well while the batting was not too flat. That might depend on what the difference really between the thicknesses blocks, however. It might not matter much if. You can try several general types of batting after finishing the top, or even part of the top, to go to a fabric store where they have at least some of batting on the lists … you can hear how each batting looks and feels when sandwiched between the top and back. (Stabilizer probably carried out by "tying" the layers in some way, as real "quilting" would be very difficult with the thickness of what you have) What a large quilt … know your child will love! HTH, Diane B.

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